Sailing Ibiza & Mallorca in the Balearics

July & Aug 2020

In the past we have holiday'd in Mallorca, never in Ibiza but we are amazed at how rugged and beautiful both Islands are.

Ibiza is known to be the party island of the Med, however we are lucky to be sailing during the summer of Covid-19.  Most of the anchorages are quiet and the towns are eerily quiet with under 50% of bars and restaurants being opened.  The tourists are not coming this year and who can blame them when the UK holiday makers are being told they have to quarantine for 2 weeks when they return.  Who is able to take 3 wks paid holiday?

The water is crystal clear so swimming is easy and checking the anchor is a bliss in waters like this.  Sant Antoni was the quietest of all with none of the tourists boats going out, although this did make the anchorages better for cruisers like us.

We visited the stunning little village of Portinatx.  With only a couple of bars & hotels, a horseshoe shaped beach and caves to explore, it was truly stunning.

We had a cracking sail to Mallorca (Majorca), it was wonderful.  The Med is not known for it's consistently good wind.  It can either be all-wind or no-wind but we were lucky on this day.  As a cruiser there is nothing more magical than when we turn the engine off and listen to the wind in the sails and the water running and splashing down the hull of the boat.



Mallorca has lots of anchorages and not so many Posidonia police keeping an eye on if you have anchored in the sea-grass.  During our month here we see more boats turning up and transiting to Italy & Turkey.

The waters are still clear and the land still rugged.  What we have noticed is a distinct lack of fish.  We love our snorkelling but we see very little in the way of fish and sea creatures, such as shame as this also means there is a lack of dolphins, explains why we haven't seen any for some time.

We arrive in Mallorca late July and very quickly we realised we are going to have to change our batteries, ALL of them.  We place and order with Mallorca Batteries but the house bank are going to be at least 2 weeks as they are coming from the UK!!

We visit Soller and what a beautiful town it is. There is the new town on the coast that is totally set up to accommodate yachts that do not want to go into the marina and then there is Old Town Soller, which can be reached by either bus or tram, we chose to visit via the tram that turned out to cost almost our daily budget.  Well worth going to visit though as it is so pretty with its narrow roads with high buildings and walkways.

Our return passage was calm enough for us to try out our spinnaker sail for the first time - it was fabulous whilst it lasted as the wind died to nothing and we had to take it down after 45mins.

Onward and upwards, batteries are due soon and we've still got lots to explore in Mallorca 😃.

Sailing Formentera in the Balearics

June 2020

Our overnight passage from just outside the Mar Manor on mainland Spain was uneventful.  We managed a cracking sail for about an hour and half then the wind dropped and we ended up motor sailing the rest of the way.

This was the first overnight sail this year and we decided that Steve would do the 8-12midnight and early morning watch, I would do the midnight to 4am.

We saw Formentera on the horizon about lunch time.  Its always exciting when you see land having been at sea for a while and this was just one night haha!  Our estimated arrival time would be 3pm.  We had been motor sailing at about 4.5knts and by the time we arrived in our anchorage in Cala Seona we had been at sea 18hours.

This is the first Mediterranean island we have sailed to and it was so exciting.  It was a large anchorage with several Spanish flagged boats but due to Covid it was still fairly quiet with foreign boats.

The water was crystal clear and warm, just as we had envisaged. Within minutes we had fish all around the boat, eager to use the shade and await for any food scraps.  

We spent our time working, paddle boarding and just enjoying the amazing views of the sunset.  And then on day three we had a first squall.  The wind whipped up very quickly and we started to drag anchor.

Fortunately we were in the cockpit. Steve ran to the bow to ensure we weren't going to hit any other boat, I turned on the engine and started to go astern slowly.  I looked across the bay and 3 other boats were also dragging.  In just a few seconds it was like someone had stirred up the whole anchorage and left us all swirling in a whirlpool.  We continued to go astern and all of a sudden the wind dropped and with a bit of careful manoeuvring so that we weren't on any other boats scope area we bed our anchor safely into position.  This time Steve actually swam down to ensure it was fully bed-in.  Steve was embarrassed that we had dragged, which we had never experienced.  He blamed himself for not checking the anchor when we arrived 2 days ago and says it was his fault as he knew we were not anchored in tightly.  We learn something every day 🙄.  

On the 5th day we decided to sail to move on and had a very slow sail to Tramontana.  This anchorage was an amazing place with fantastic rock formations above the most awesome cave that we dingy'd over to see.  We are beginning to notice a lot of naked sailors.  It appears to be the norm to walk around your boat completely starkers.  The funny thing is that we have yet to see a UK flagged boat like this.  

We stayed a couple of nights here as we were sheltered from the wind but then at about 7pm we noticed we were one of 4 boats left in the anchorage, which had had about 50 boats in it.  The weather was due to turn but not until the following morning.  However, we decided that we would move on to the other side of the island or Ibiza, wind dependent.  As it was we did sail but only slowly so we anchored in Platja de sea Illetes where we saw many of the boats that had left the same anchorage as us.  It was dark when we arrived at 10pm but we could see the water was clear and calm, we were safe.

Boy, are we glad we anchored up here in Platja de sea Illetes.  It's like we have been transported to the Caribbean.  We were looking over a sandy sliver of land that was being beaten by waves from the west but was beautifully calm on the east.  We decided to go and explore.  It was an amazing place where the water was able to cross over the sandbar, which could be walked through as well.  The sand dunes all along the sandbar were awesome and we stood and watched the waves ferocious & wild on the west but only 50mtrs across the shoreline was like rippling molten silver.  This was true paradise ♡.

Having spent nearly wonderful 2 weeks in Formentera next stop was Ibiza.............

Sailing along the Southern Coast of Spain

June 2020

We initially set sail heading for the Balearic Islands knowing that we either do a 2-3 overnight sail or stop off along the Spanish coast and we are so glad that we decided to anchor in a few fishing ports along the way.

Our approach the first night in Fuengirola was fabulous.  We were overlooked by the Sohail Castle on the hill.  The night was a bit rolly due to having no protection from the open sea but it was fairly late when we arrived so once we had dinner we were ready for bed.


We rose early the following morning knowing that we had another full days sail heading for Ensenada de los Berenguelos.  After a lazy sail we arrived.  The bay hooked around the headline so was fairly sheltered. This was the first of the stunning anchorages that we visited.  It had a small beach with houses nestled into the hills with overhanging foliage all overlooking the anchorage.  The whole area looked superbly clean.  We were accompanied by 2 other boats in the bay but there was plenty of room for us all.  You could see clear to the seabed in 6mtrs of water.  It was superb.

We sailed on from here to Roquetas de Mar.  Navily, an app we use for anchorages and marinas, did not have particularly good reviews for this one.  However, we stayed here several days as we were able to anchor just outside the marina wall and leave our dinghy against the harbour wall in the fishing port next to the marina.  There were supermarkets and launderettes within 5mins of the port and the anchorage overlooked a super long beach.  We had a lovely time here both relaxing, working and provisioning.

On from here we had seen that Genaveses was a stunning anchorage set in a national park so this was our next port of call.  There were a number of boats here already when we turned up and following us a few more yachts arrived.  It is quite a large horseshoe bay and we could see from the deck of Cordelia that we could go ashore at the beach and take ourselves off on one of the many walks around the park.  However, the wind had other ideas.  During the early hours of the night an easterly wind blew up directly into the bay and we rolled and rolled and rolled.  Although we were never in any danger both of us didn't sleep a wink all night so at 6am we up'd anchor and set sail for Calabardina.

Calabardina was a lovely small fishing village that protected us against the east winds that were still about.  We'd had a great sail and were ready for a good nights sleep having had no sleep last night.  The following day we went ashore to have a look around.  It consists of a couple of small hotels and what look like holiday homes.  It has a lovely a beach with a couple of great hippie beach bars, which we stopped at for a much needed cold drink.  We stayed on another night just to get a good nights rest again.  We are in no rush and quite happy to slowly sail along the coast.

Our next stop was La Azohia, opposite Mazarron.  Again this was a stunning setting to one end of a large bay.  Overlooked by hills and a long beach.  The water was crystal clear, even in 5mtrs.  The fishing port was only small but had a quay that the local children spent hours jumping off.  There were no shops in the village, although there was a Spar at the other end of the beach.  We were sheltered from the winds in calm, clear blue waters with fish swimming around the boat.  We head heard that there was a FoodCo supermarket in Mazarron that sold British food so took the dinghy across the 4.5mile bay to buy gas and food.  We found both very easily and the fact we were able to leave the dinghy tied up a railing at the western end of the beach was ideal.  La Azohia is what we had come to the Med for.  It was idyllic and we ended up staying for 6 nights.

Our last stop was just outside the Mar Manor lagoon in an anchorage called Cuna overlooked by the Faro Cabl de Palos lighthouse.  It's impressive height towered over the anchorage, which was a pretty little cove to the southern end of the Mar Manor.  Currently the local government have stopped all leisure boating in the Mar Manor as they are trying to sort the environmental issue out.  The lagoon is nothing more than stagnant green water at the moment.

It's been a fantastic start to our 2020 summer cruising journey.  Next stop is Formentera in the Balearic Islands............

Sailing out of Gibraltar to start cruising in 2020

June 2020

We are ready to leave Alcaidesa Marina on 1st June 2020.  We have spent 8 months here in the marina and whilst the community spirit has been great and we have felt very safe, we are eager to start cruising again.

We don't go far initially, just 50yrds into La Linea bay to make sure that all the work Steve had done over the winter period to the water-maker, electronics, plumbing etc. was okay.  It was lovely just to be at anchor.

Whilst at anchor we were woken wondering if someone was trying to get on the boat but to our to amazement we found live fish on the boat and the water surrounding us was alive with fish jumping out of the water at least a metre, it was amazing.

Gibraltar Bay has great holding and although there are not a lot of places to leave your dinghy, if you can find somewhere there are plenty of supermarkets and a great local market in La Linea.


Our very loose plan is to sail the Southern Coast of Spain, head over to the Balearic Islands, visit Sardinia and Corsica and then winter in Sicily. However, as I said this is a very loose plan as with Covid-19 still quite a problem in a lot of countries, we will do whatever is needed to keep safe and within easy'ish access to an airport.

After a week we fuelled up in Gibraltar as the fuel is tax free (217ltrs for £93)!! and went on our way.  The weather was looking fair with winds of up to 10knts but that suited us.  However, once we were out of the bay the winds pickup up to 15-20kts, which is what we needed and we had a fantastic sail to Fuengirola, our first stop.

Sailing UK to Gibraltar - Our first 6 months

May 2020

It has been 12 months since we let the lines go and friends waved us off in Southampton, UK.  We were tired from all the prep work, excited for what was to come, anxious about the unknown and scared of what we did know.  But this was the start of our dream, to sail the world for as long as we both wanted and were able to.

Our first 6 weeks were spent winding down in Swanage, Brixham, Dittisham & Dartmouth, UK.  The weather was good to us with hot, long summer days.  There is nothing on earth like the UK in good weather, it is truly a stunning country.  Unfortunately, dry warm days are rare in the UK and it is this reason that has led us to wanting to sail off in search of good weather and new places.

Having completed a few odd jobs and a visit from Katrina, Stu, Zed & Zach and Paul, David and Jess (friends of ours) we were ready to cross the English Channel.  This would be our first crossing and our first time in France in Cordelia, we were excited.  An overnight passage on one tack from Dartmouth to L'Aber Wrach at an average of 5knots with dolphins swimming off the bow, was more than we could ever have dreamt for.

We loved Northern France.  Friends had asked us before whey we hadn't at least sailed there for our summer holiday's in the past, we now ask ourselves that same thing.  Brittany is beautiful and the coast round entering the Atlantic was just as stunning.

We moved on crossing The Bay of Biscay.  This again was a truly amazing passage, with no wind it took us over 3 days.  We witnessed the most beautiful and restful sunrises & dolphins swimming in luminescence with no moon, the beauty of them gliding through the ocean that was as black at tar but with sparkling streams of blue & green behind them was something from a Disney movie, just magical.

We arrived in Gijon, Northern Spain and again we loved it.  Our special place was the Spanish Rias.  These are 3 Rias that you enter from the Atlantic and must not be missed on your way to the Mediterranean or Caribbean.  There are so many beaches and fishing villages you could easily spend months there.

From the Rias we headed towards Portugal.  We were in for a surprise.  We didn't realise how stunning areas of Portugal are.  We spent time Caiscais visiting Lisbon and a couple of anchorages along the Atlantic coast heading towards The Algarve.  We had been told not to miss Ilha da Culatra and we are so pleased we didn't.  We actually spent a few weeks here.  It was safe, calm & beautiful.  The little island had no roads or cars.  All buildings are no more than 2 story houses, the paths are forever covered in sand and groceries can be bought from 2 small shops.  Apparently 3000 people on this sliver of land and all supplies are bought over by boat from mainland Portugal.  This is place we would love to visit again.

Cadiz came next, where we met Sue & Robbie who spent a week visiting at the same time (although they were in a hotel).  Cadiz is a special place, full of very old buildings that have not been damaged by world wars.  Entering the bay Cadiz city is enclosed within a wall with turrets from buildings in the distance.  If you've never spent time in Cadiz, then try to.  It's narrow lanes with beautiful towering buildings each side makes it a city never to be forgotten.

Leaving Cadiz we knew our next main stop would be in the Gibraltar Bay.  We had decided that having had such a brilliant time since we left the UK, why hurry to go across the Atlantic and miss out on spending some time the Mediterranean so we booked a winter berth in Alcaidesa Marina in La Linea Spain.  

We have sailed in 4 countries, visited 29 anchorages or marinas and travelled 1618 nautical miles in 6 months.  We've met some amazing people, eaten some scrumptious food and seen some fantastic places - what a first year!!!!

Community spirit supporting our local businesses under Covid-19 lockdown

April 2020

Life feels surreal at the moment.  We wake up, look out the hatch and the sun is still shining or the rain is still pouring, the wind is still howling through the rigging and for a split second all seems normal and the world is just having a quiet moment because you can't hear the traffic, people chatting, kids playing in the park or the planes overhead.  Then you remember life is so very very different living under Covid-19 lockdown.

Due to the virus all ports over the world have closed.  There are varying levels of closure in countries from total closure for all recreational boating and commercial shipping to being allowed to anchor but not being allowed ashore with food deliveries being made to the boats, being allowed to anchor and only going ashore for the supermarket or medical reasons, being allowed to stay in marina's but not leaving, the list of varying levels of closure goes on and on.  We are in Alcaidesa Marina.  We are not allowed to leave unless we are travelling back to our home country.  We have extended our berthing until 31st May as we were due to leave for the Balearic Islands on April 7th.



One of the berth holders Debbie started up a Facebook Group called the Alcaidesa Marina Amigos to help bring everyone together in a bid to help keep the virus out by sharing information.


Paul another berth holder arranged for local businesses to supply and deliver to the marina, these included green grocer, butcher, baker, fishmonger, pharmacy and gas can also be organised so the need to go to a supermarket is almost non-existent.


This has created a lot of media interest and the marina has been on television and in the newspaper.

We talk to family in the UK and Canada and they are under similar restrictions but lucky for them not total lockdown as Spain is.

30th April 2020 - The death toll in Spain reached a high of over 900 and for several days over 850 people, the total as of today is over 24,543 deaths with 213k confirmed cases but the good news is over 113k are fully recovered.  Worldwide 220k have died with over 3.2million confirmed cases but again 986k have recovered.

We wonder now how different life may be when this is all over.  We doubt it will ever be the same again.  Airlines are already reporting that it will be years before their full fleet are airborne again and have started to make mass redundancies.  Supermarkets are set to keep the 2mtr social distance rule while some countries are said to be introducing perspex domes for beaches.  They are saying it will the 'New Normal'.  Life is going on but it's like something out of a movie.

Meanwhile, washing still needs to be done and we still need to eat - Dorade fish from the fishmonger baked in garlic, lemon & olive oil...yum yum!

We spend the time trying to finish all then jobs that we were going to do on route to the Mediterranean and Caribbean.  This should at least mean we can just carry out maintenance on Cordelia and enjoy the non-sailing days just relaxing.

 

Shingles & Under lockdown in Spain, Alcaidesa Marina - Covid-19

March 2020

We had planned to spend 6 months in Alcaidesa Marina, Spain getting ready for a fabulous summer season 2020 in the Mediterranean.  We've been back to the UK twice, once pre-organised and once due to an sick parent.  Our daughter Katrina and family visited in December and we were lucky enough to have Suzie & Robbie staying in Estipona only 30mins away so we stayed with them 3 times.  So all in all we have had quite a busy winter.

Then............

We returned from a stay with family in February to start prepping the boat for our summer cruise.  Then we started to hear about a virus that had started in China and people were dying, very quickly and it was spreading rapidly.  Then the media started to report Italy & Korea had also been hit with it.  China went under lockdown and the world was shocked but very rapidly Italy followed suit.

The world over had started to listen and act, albeit slowly.  We had been advised to wash our hands as often as possible.  Also the Chinese had been seen wearing facial respirator masks.  Within a couple of days stocks of hand sanitiser, face masks & toilets rolls has disappeared.  Panic buying had set in. People were going berserk buying all and any kind of cleaning fluid and toiletries.


 On Saturday 14th March Spain went into lockdown.  It was quick and swift.  We knew it was imminent and the Spanish government decreed that the country was in a state of alert.

Thank goodness for social media. We were able to find out what exactly 'state of alert' meant and how it would affect us.  The basis of it is that all social and recreational places such as cafes, restaurants, parks, clubs, pubs, retail shops will close immediately.  No two people are allowed out together, no more than one person is allowed per car.  The only exceptions to this are children with parents and dog walkers but this was also restricted.

Supermarkets were open but restricted to 10 people at a time.  Customers queued outside waiting their turn with guards at the door.  There is plenty of food but it's basics like veg, bread, milk etc.  No sweets or chocolate - I was not a happy person :(

The Spanish government have authorised the police to hand out 'on-the-spot' fines of €600 to people that are caught on the street unnecessarily.  If you need to go out you must have a very good reason i.e. doctors, supermarket, hospital or to visit an elderly person.  All of these reasons you must provide evidence if asked.

Is it possible that you can shut down a country as big as Spain in just a couple of days.  The answer is YES.

We are now over a week into lockdown.  The streets are empty of people, quiet of bustling shoppers and families enjoying their social coffee time.  The roads are clear with the exception of a few people going to work.  The parks are cordoned off with tape.  We have been advised to keep at least 2mtrs between you and another person if you happen to see someone.  Businesses have closed their offices and are trying to work from home and this includes the marina.

There is hardly any movement in the marina. A few yachts turned up at the marina taking refuge as many marina's across the world are closed.  We have learned in the last day that we are now not allowed to leave the marina and that all recreational sailing has been banned.  The 'state of alert' was for an initial 15days and 9 days in the Spanish Government extended that to an additional 15 days.  Another berth holder set up a marina Facebook group and called it Alcaidesa Marina Prisoners Community and it's certainly helping to share information.

All during this time I have had shingles across my chest, luckily a mild bout of it and this has helped me with the isolation.

We are happy with our lot, still love life and will continue with our cruising as soon as we are allowed.  The world is coming together to beat this awful virus and hopefully we will come out of it a more sharing, kinder & wiser world.